Entertainers, Hurdy Girls, Soiled Doves
and other Ladies of the Evening

copyright 2000 Shooting Star Enterprises- please do not "borrow" photographs as most are from my personal collection unless otherwise noted.

So, you want to be a Soiled Dove...

The Ruined Maid

“O ‘Melia, my dear, this does everything crown!
Who could have supposed I should meet you in Town?
And whence such fair garments, such proseperi-ty”--
“O didn’t you know I’d been ruined?” said she.

--”You left us in tatters, without shoes or socks,
Tired of digging potatoes, and spudding up docks;
And now you’ve gay bracelets and bright feathers three!”
“Yes, that’s how we dress when we’re ruined.” said she.

--”At home in the barton you said ‘thee’ and ‘thou,’
And ‘thik oon,’ and ‘theas oon,’ and ‘t’other’; but now
Your talking quite fits ‘ee for high compa-ny!”--
“Some polish is gained with one’s ruin,” said she.

--”Your hands were like paws then, your face blue and bleak
But now I’m bewitched by your delicate cheek,
And your little gloves fit as on any la-dy!”--
“We never do work when we’re ruined,” said she.

--”You used to call home-life a hag ridden dream,
And you’d sigh, and you’d sock; but at present you seem
To know not the megrims or melancholoy!”--
“True, One’s pretty lively when ruined,” said she.

-- “I wish I had feathers, a fine sweeping gown,
And a delicate face, and could strut about Town!”--
“My dear- a raw country girl, such as you be,
Cannot quite expect that. You ain’t ruined,” said she.

Thomas Hardy ( written circa 1901)

Although it sounds like an exciting part to play- it wasn't all it was cracked up to be- These aren't the ladies you see in the movies or on stage in the fancy short dresses. It was a job where you often died young- by disease or self infliction(drug-abuse, suicide) Children, welcomed joyously in the west- had no place or part in these ladies lives, it only meant a loss of money. Unless you were a madam, most of the money you made was not yours to keep. Even when you did make money- you were a social outcast, in most communities. Yet, there are many levels to the lumped together group of "Saloon Girls" and some are definitely more acceptable than others. Since this is a historical clothing research site we will focus less on that ladies themselves and more on what they wore. Lets take a look at some of them.

At the Top of the Ladder-

Entertainers, Actresses and Professional Beauties- these ladies were known to be a bit on the flamboyant side. They could move among the "proper women" in town. They would dress everyday or on the street, much as a well-to-do lady "back east" would dress. On stage however, they had some rather "racy" costumes for the time. These were often featured on "tobacco cards" found in cigarettes in the 1880-early 1900's. Some examples of stage costume are shown below courtesy of Cartophily Kate's

Hurdy Girls and Hostesses

A hostess's main job was to sell drinks and provide visual entertainment for the gentlemen. A pretty face and the turn of an ankle would keep the fellas in the bar until their money was gone. To portray one of these ladies a normal day dress would be appropriate, with the small adjustment of the shortening of a skirt. For a Hurdy Girl- they might be found on stage or they might be dancing with "the boys". A slightly fancier dress and a slightly shorter skirt may be appropriate. Also in this category might fall the Can-Can girls. These girls would wear a very full knee-length dress. NOT in the job description for any of these girls would be selling their body, although it was known to happen on occasion when a girl was wanting to make extra money.

Parlour Girls, Courtesans and Mistresses

These are the "high-class" soiled doves. To see one out on the street you might think a well to do lady had come to town. Business was carried on very discreetly and with all decorum, until the girl was upstairs behind closed doors. Advertisement was done by dressing the girls up in their best and going for a carriage ride. Clothes and underclothes were the finest and these girls were accomplished in many things- manners, sewing, music, as well as the "bedroom arts" They were well paid, but not accepted by the proper women as equals in most cities. They wore evening or reception dresses to receive their "evening guests" when the words "company ladies" were called out. Some ladies were fortunate enough to be supported by one man and own their own house. Clothing was much the same.

A couple of "soiled doves" in front of Belle Birdard's Parlour House in Denver, CO from Anne Seagraves book- Soiled Doves- Prostitution in the Old West

A photo probably dating in the mid 1890's, the lady is posed in a very provocative pose for the day- perhaps a lady of the evening, or just a playful pose we may never know, however it would not be uncommon streetwear for either.
Madam and Brothel Girls

The next step down are the Brothel Girls. Often photos in the late 1880's-early 1900's show these girls dressed in loose wrappers which might reach to their boot tops or their feet. On the street the girls would probably dress more respectably or risk being run out of town by the proper ladies.

A couple of ladies wearing wrapper style dresses about 1890 in front of a brothel in Saltese, Montana- from the Timothy Gordon Collection as found in Soiled Doves These dresses were easy to "do business in" as they were not as restrictive as other clothing common to the time.

Cribs

On the low end of the scale are the crib girls, these girls might be put on display in the lower end of the red light district in a short skirt showing their black stockings and enticing men in for a "good time" these were the worn out, no longer youthful, women, often drug addicts or those who could get work no where else.

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Photo from Cowboys and Trappings of the Old West

A lady in the 1890's close to the end of her career.

I suspect this young lady could be a professional beauty or a "soiled dove" it is on an advertising card for photos

This is another picture of an actress in costume dated 1888

A dance hall in Abilene, KS circa 1870

Some of My Personal Costumes

An Evening Dress- for a proper lady, or entertainer.

A very theatrical dress - from a style in 1867-68. Made for a portrayal of Adah Issacs Meinken

A dress for the can-can or a stage entertainer (in this case a medicine show)

A costume for the actress or stage entertainer- or perhaps a madam or "parlour girl"

For the stage entertainer only. Seen in theatrical productions, and other stage shows,I was trying this on for the picture only- if I were to wear it for reenactment I would use plain black opaque tights.

Books to Read

Soiled Doves

Daughters of Joy, Sisters of Misery : Prostitutes in the American West, 1865-90

The Underworld Sewer : A Prostitute Reflects on Life in the Trade, 1871-1909

Long hair hanging loose was always a "racy" look this photo date about 1870

A rather daring pose with a proper dress 1880's

Moondance,The Old West, stories of Shady Ladies

Harlots and Bordellos

Shooting Star's Reference Library

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