Pattern Making-
The Late Bustle Era Bodice

PLEASE READ THE FOLLOWING BEFORE SIGNING UP FOR THE CLASS
THIS CLASS IS NOT for the BEGINNING SEAMSTRESS

However it is a beginning pattern making class. You need not have made a pattern before.

Skills needed will include:

• Basic sewing skills (You must have constructed garments before, can sew a set in sleeve, understand the terms baste, gather, straight stitch, ease.)
• Basic drawing skills.
• Ability to read ruler/tape measure and square a line.

Pattern Making: Late Bustle Era Bodice.
Making the 1880's bodice for the Living historian/reenactor.
Are you frustrated with available patterns? Do they never fit?
Do you even wonder if they are made on correct lines?

This class is for the intermediate to experienced seamstress who
would like to make an 1880's bodice that really fits them.
Most bodices from the 1880s are built on the same foundation
with minor changes in decoration and closures, so by creating a personal sloper
and doing a bit of research, you will have hundreds of patterns at your fingertip.
Never again show up as a cookie cutter creation at a living history event or reenactment.

We will be using your own measurements to create a
personal 1880's sloper with flat pattern methods.
This direct measure system was developed by myself using both
modern drafting techniques and period dressmaking systems
so as to give a historical cut that fits the modern body.
We will take measurements, draft a paper pattern,
make muslin and discover how to turn the basic garment
into the bodice of your dreams.
Participants will be encouraged to submit a photo or fashion plate
of a bodice from this era to work from and will
learn to recognize specific characteristics to certain dates.

Lesson 1:
Taking measurements, An overview of 1880's bodice lines
as it relates to all classes of Victorian ladies.
lesson 2:
Drawing the basic pattern
Making allowances for large bust cups.
Adding seam allowances.
lesson 3:
Cutting your muslin from the paper pattern, Sewing it.
Fitting problems and fixing them.
What to do if…
lesson 4:
Adapting your basic bodice to different styles common in the period.
How to change the bottom bodice line.
Common overlay methods, pleating, vest fronts, and double breasted or overlapped designs.
lesson 5:
Drafting various Sleeves, collars and closures styles for your bodice.
lesson 6:
Finishing details and notes.
Making facings, choosing fabrics and buttons.
Helpful hints.


 Supply list:

• A roll of poster paper.
• A tailors square (14x24- a carpenters square obtainable at the hardware store is also acceptable or a T-square.)
• Pencils
• Textbook: The Lady's Dressmaker: A late Bustle Era Bodice Manual.
• Styling design ruler or long french curve (available at sewing stores, Atlanta thread and supply, Nancy's notions.)
• Approximately 3 yds of muslin (or an old white or light colored sheet)
• Ultra fine point sharpie marker (or other fine marker) and tape.
• Plus basic sewing tools- sewing machine, scissors, pins, marking pencils/pens.
• It is nice to have is a set of multiple colored highlighters, a friend, relative or partner to help with the fitting and measuring.
  • Sources:
    • Nancy's Notions
    • Atlanta Thread Company
    • Hardware stores and lumberyards often carry squares at good prices.
    • Fabric stores often have long French curves or styling design rulers.