Foundation of Elegance- late victorian undergarments

Undergarments of the Late Victorian Era
The Foundation of Elegance
All images from the private collection of Marna Jean Davis - All rights reserved, for study purposes only.
Please do not copy. Images taken from original Butterick's catalogs in Marna's collection.
Below is an Excerpt from Marna's book Buttons Bows and Cowboy clothes

Common Undergarments in the order that they are put on
Drawers - an undergarment for the nether region. Modern terms -Bloomers, pantaloons.
A loose pants like garment often open at the crotch. After about 1850 they were knee
length. Before that 1820-40 they were ankle length.

Chemise (she mez)- a loose fitting nightgown like garment. Usually knee length and
falling from a yoke, and has short sleeves. late 1800's some were gored to reduce bulk.
Worn underneath corset.

Petticoat - 1700's-early 1800's thegeneral name for a skirt.
In the victorian era an under skirt used to give fullness and shape to dress.
Great variety in fabrics - the most common being cotton muslin, longcloth,
or flannel. Also made in quilted satin, taffeta, silks, cashmere in white and colors.

Corset- Stays. A figure defining garment made in many styles according to dress shape
that was in fashion. Fancy satin corsets were lined with cotton twill to give them strength.
The boning could be whalebone, wood, metal, or for nursing and maternity simply made
from strong cotton and piped vertically to give firmness.

Corset cover or vest - a close fitting decorative , camisole like garment.
Worn over the stays to protect the dress and smooth the corset line.

Crinoline- usually used to describe hoop petticoats in old fashion magazines.
Can be used to describe any petticoat.

Tournure - Bustle also crinolette. A device used to give an extension to the backside to
support the fullness of the dresses. Made of varying materials. wire, boning, horsehair
ruffles, or even small stuffed pillows.

"What's the point? No one is going to see my underwear!" You quite reasonably ask.
They may not see your underwear but the effect of it will show in how your costume
drapes and fits, and how you carry yourself. A true period look starts from the skin up.
Chemises will save you money in cleaning bills on that wool dress by soaking up
perspiration, they will also aid in your comfort as a buffer between your stays and your
skin. Petticoats and bustles can change the look of a dress entirely. Corsets can be made
from flexible boning and not laced tightly, but they will help you to hold yourself
properly. Don't skimp on the foundation of your dress.

Basic style open drawers worn by the majority of late Victorian era women. The length would be right below the knee.

1897 French drawers- open at the crotch seam like the earlier drawers

1897 Umbrella drawers

improved open drawers, more overlap in the back gives a more "modest" drawers

knickerbocker drawers were gathered at the knee to a band. These could be closed or open and were seen from the late 1870's on.

Chemise and drawers combination- this was meant for the corset to be worn over the top. Notice the drop seat

To be worn over the top of the corset. Most likely a undervest would be worn underneath the corset to prevent chafing.

Princess chemise- may or may not be fitted with darts or seams.

corset

corset

.

Some undergarment resources
Down Under the underwear special at La Couturiere Parisienne
Corsets from Lord and Tailor 1881
Kent University Lingerie collection
The Fashion Page- A small history of Undergarments

Shooting Star Historical Seminars- "Over and Under"

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Basic style open drawers worn by the majority of late Victorian era women. The length would be right below the knee.	1897 French drawers- open at the crotch seam like the earlier drawers	1897 Umbrella drawers
improved open drawers, more overlap in the back gives a more "modest" drawers	knickerbocker drawers were gathered at the knee to a band. These could be closed or open and were seen from the late 1870's on.	Chemise and drawers combination- this was meant for the corset to be worn over the top. Notice the drop seat
To be worn over the top of the corset. Most likely a undervest would be worn underneath the corset to prevent chafing.	Princess chemise- may or may not be fitted with darts or seams.
	corset	corset
	.