Sunbonnet History


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Historical Notes for the Victorian Era Sunbonnets SSE-H-1
Copyright Marna Jean Davis 2002-2007

1880's vintage dress sunbonnet- bengaline silk	In the late 1840's when the great western movement began, practical ladies going west with their families developed a clothing item that would remain a staple in the western woman's wardrobe for 80 years or better- The Sunbonnet. Fashionable bonnets would not have born up to the abuse on the trail, so ladies took a common protective style of the era and fashioned it of plain calico. Sometimes they would use thin wood or cardboard slats for stiffening that could be removed to wash the hat, and sometimes buckram or even quilting several layers of fabric. This style would remain as a working hat for many years (through the 1920's- I have one in my collection that was my Grandmothers from that era), it protected eyes and skin from the sun, as well as the back of your neck. The originals were very similar to the fashionable bonnets of the 1840s, but as time passed the bavolet (back neck ruffle) of the bonnet grew larger and more protective. They may look warm to wear, but actually saved skin from burning and the hot sun from beating down on the dark color of the average working dress.
Sunbonnets would eventually be made in many shapes and sizes, including patterns which would lay totally flat for washing and ironing, and fall gracefully into shape by means of ties or buttons. Of the sunbonnets in my collection, one is my grandmother's, made from her grandmother's pattern, and was worn for gardening when she was a girl. Two are similar in style to View B; One is a calico with a much abbreviated bavolet, and the other came with a full work apron from the late 1870's and is blue gingham. Two are "dress" bonnets- "practical" silk confections for the westward woman. And the final two are children's bonnets- one dating to the 1840s, made in an infant size and with a corded brim, and the other is white pique with a button on crown in a style that was first seen in the 1870's. Comparing details from the bonnets and others I've seen in collections several differences in dressy bonnets and work bonnets show themselves. The first is the fabric- black silk being the most popular for a dress bonnet, but they are found in other colors. Work bonnets were made from more washable stuff, calico prints, leftovers from old dresses, along with linen, chambray, gingham, muslin, and such as that. Dress bonnets generally are stiffened with buckram, and are often fully lined, while the work bonnets either are stiffened with removable slats or quilting over a firm fabric that could be starched into shape and are a single layer with the exception of the brim lining. The last difference is the "dress" bonnets generally consist of multiple pieces- brim, bavolet (the neck cape) and crown pieces- while the work bonnet is more simply made- with only one or two main pieces and the brim lining.	Late 1870's bonnet- black silk taffeta quilted brim
Work bonnet calico turn of the century- this style seen from 1870s on with varied bavolet lengths	I have chosen 3 patterns based on illustrations in vintage Butterick catalogs- along with my studies of original bonnet shapes and designed 3 bonnets that will suffice the working woman through the entire bustle era. These 3 bonnets follow the "feel" of the prevailing style the early bustle era bonnet (View A- 1872) is a fuller style and a bit more "fussy" than the bonnets that would follow- its style looks perfect with the fuller sleeves, and rounder shape of this period. The natural form era bonnet(View B-1878) is a slender style with little fullness, emphasizing long lines with the flow of the bavolet. The late Bustle era bonnet (view C 1880-85) was released in 1880 and is the simplest bonnet of all of them, with a fold back brim showing the more practical nature woman was beginning to take when designing her work clothing.

Childs bonnet white pique- button on brim 1890's style


Victorian Sunbonnet Pattern for sale

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