Early Bustle Era Dresses 1868-1876
The large crinoline has collapsed and the bustle has made its appearance. This era shows the shoulder seam creeping closer to the natural shoulder line (still just a bit lower though) and the apron style overskirt making a strong appearance. The silhouette is almost a "puff" The fashionable figure is round and full. Sleeves are most often cut in a two piece "coat sleeve" form, but a modified pagoda is also seen, although it is much less full than those popular in the civil war era. Polonaise style dresses are very popular, as well as waist length bodices worn with an overskirt.
The following are examples of some of my designs from this era.

Visiting Dress Early 1870's This Dress won a most authenic costume award. It is an early 1870's style, the skirt is a striped silk/cotton blend (stripes were very popular at that time). The polonaise top is made of cotton with moss fringe and buttons down the front with abalone buttons. It features a apron front and a square-cut back with a deep double pleat to allow for the bustle. My favorite part about this dress is I found a photo of an early 1870's kansas train depot in a book and the lady standing on the platform could have been me- right down to the hat, gloves and parasol! AFTER I had designed and made the dress. You know you're starting to think like the ladies of the past when you unwittingly copy a dress design!

A Visiting Dress circa 1875 This dress was a fun design, especially because of the colors. I had purchased the fabrics a bit at a time as they caught my eye, including the untrimmed mustard yellow hat. It is a double-breasted polonaise trimmed with rust colored velvet band, lapels, and buttons, worn over a simple mustard yellow twill skirt. It is worn with a velvet ribbon from which dangles a cross (very popular at that time period) The cuffs are pleated with a button catching each pleat. The hat was found untrimmed and I added several large velvet roses in yellow/rust tones, a bright mustard yellow feather butterfly, and rust colored ribbons. It is definitely an eye-catching ensemble and one of my new favorites. There is also a velvet sash not shown in the photo that can be worn with it.

A Day Dress Early 1870's

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