Civil War Era Dresses 1857-1867
This is the era of the crinoline, or the hoop skirt as we call it. Before the crinoline became popular, the full skirts were achieved with many layers of petticoats or even corded petticoats. Skirt widths could range from 150" for and average dress to 240" for evening dreses. Early skirts (pre 1863-4) were often cut from rectangular panels of fabric, and pleated onto a waistband. After this some skirts were gored to present less bulk at the waistline. Shoulder seam sloped well to the back at the armscye and the armscye was low on the shoulder actually resting on the upper arm. Sleeves were in several variations, becoming the most fitted after the civil war. Collars were often the "peter pan style" or other small collars or bits of lace that could be taken off for cleaning or a change.
-The following are examples of some of my designs from this era.

A Day Dress- 1865 This Dress is based on a photo I have in my collection- I date it to 1865 because of the tax stamp on the reverse of the photo. It is a two piece dress with a straight cut pleated skirt, vest point bodice, velvet ribbon trim, and a white peterpan collar. It closes center front with hooks and eyes but has a row of decorative mother of pearl buttons on the top. The sleeves are set off by a decorative "jockey" and cuff.

A Civil War period Slave's costume This costume was made for a lady portraying an African American slave in the civil war era. We chose a homespun fabric in tan and black, a coarsely woven tan linen/cotton apron, a rust red colored cotton headscarf, and for warmth a red flannel petticoat underneath. The dress is very simple, 3 widths in the skirt, front opening with calico button closure, the old-fashione sleeves are wide enough to roll up. The skirt is hand hemmed as is the apron and headscarf. A black heavy cotton shawl finishes the look.

A Visiting Dress 1860's A larger version of the same dress on my first civil war page

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